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Tuesday, May 25, 2010

From the shelf - II

City of Darkness comemorates one of mankind's forgotten relics, unfortunately bound to be obliviated. What we're dealing with of course is the story of that most mythical of places of yore, last century's rotten fruit of anglo-sino debauchery, the by-product of Hong Kong: Kowloon Walled City.
Alas, this is not entirely true, for the Walled City had been part of the Kowloon bay area for a long time, long before the acquisition of Hong Kong Island by the English. It was this landmark in World history that changed what was once a small, rural and peaceful town, whose famous walls had been set up as fortification for that coastal area. However, after the island transaction a series of misinterpretations of the article in the contract relating to the possession of Kowloon remained in debate... pretty much until the end of Hong Kong's lease in 1997.
This granted Kowloon the title of enclave and, almost, freestate; and it was this apparently effective yet twisted commune that stemmed so far from anarcho-syndicalism as possible made itself into what it was: a haven for the poor and outcast.
While living conditions could be compared to the common slums, it was the lack of government interference, legislation and, most importantly, service that set it apart. Buildings sprung up into the skies until the set limit of 14 stories had been reached (due to the proximity of Kai Tak airport), and for the most part could be traveled above ground, with various passages between them at upper levels. Water was drawn from wells and electrical wires were everywhere, a massive web that was so much a visual part of the City.

Who was to gain from this experience were not as could be easily thought and wrongly publicized, the black market and drug dealers (although they played their part, mostly in using the City as a temporary hideout) but free-enterprisers, like factories and medical offices, who came to the city as a way to set up shop while avoiding prohibitive land taxes in the populated and high-rolling Hong Kong island. And this was in fact what set it apart from the common slum. What transpires from this wonderful book is how Kowloon was made up of such a hardworking and tighknit community; a community who made a honest living and looked out for each other. Basic principles of associativism were followed to ensure basic services like electricity and trash collection could be brought from the outside, while even despite the absolutely labyrinthic nature of the streets, a regular postal delivery service could be mantained.
The book itself, more than a history book, presents itself through interviews with a series of inhabitants from the city at the time when the first evacuation waves started. This, coupled with the marvelous photographic work by the authors, gives a tremendous and invaluable insight into the lives of these hardworking men and women who, despite their harsh living conditions still looked forward to a good future within the city and couldn't hide disappointment in its evacuation (compensations were handed) and destruction.
Kowloon Walled City was desinfected and demolished by wrecking ball in 1993.

For more on this subject:
Kowloon Walled City Park
Video footage from inside Kowloon Walled City
Kowloon Walled City Japanese Expedition
Seminal 80s movie Bloodsport set in KWC, starring J.C.Van Damme

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